Thursday, June 3, 2010

Santo Domingo/Burgos/Leon/Ponferrada

Ok, I will have to say that yesterday was just an all around bad day for me.  I´m not sure what the Camino was trying to tell me, but after a wonderful time in Santo Domingo, and getting a great start, feeling fresh, I quickly realized my little tootsies were once again on fire.  I´m really not sure what I am doing wrong, but have decided that the pressure to walk 20-25 km a day is just plain crazy.  The tempo around here is this, every morning at 0 dark 30 people get up, and get on the path, in the dark.  They rush, rush, rush to get in 25 km before the sun burns through the mist, and to be first in line at the Albergue.  It is totally insane.  The picture above reflected just how I felt yesterday. lol  Is this a spiritual walk or a race?  I have come upon some Albergues that have been full (I arrive rather late) but never has it been a problem, I just find a pension or even splurge on a hotel if I must.  Usually the church will offer some assistance as well.  So why are they so crazed?  Well most have jobs to return to and they have a deadline. It is frustrating for me, because I enjoy the company of so many new friends, and then they are off like a herd of turtles to the next town.  I found myself trying to keep pace with them, and it is not good for me.  Perhaps a lesson in ¨Keeping up with the Joneses¨ as we say in the US.  None the less, lesson learned.  I will only walk where I want, when I want, and I won´t stray from the path.  Taking a bus through the meseta was ok for me.  It was long, and flat, and hot, and quite boring actually.  I suppose I could  have done it, and gone into some contemplative thing about aloneness, and the frailty of living without any resources for days.  ummm, nope, I don´t think so.   So, no, I am in Ponferrado and it is a very cool town of about 65,000 people.  It has a castle in the center of the town where the knights of Templar hung out.  It almost looks like Snow White´s castle.  lol...   My friend Vlada, from Australia...
In Santo Domingo the Albergue was awesome!  This was the room for the bicycles, the walking sticks, and the boots!  Is that cool or what?
The next picture is of two Camino angels named Matt and Kayla.  They are from Pennsylvania and studying Spanish at the university here.  I met tham at this bus stop, when I was totally lost in Burgos.  They laughed when I asked them if they spoke English.  I was so glad.  They got me back on the right path.  In big cities, it is really easy to miss the little yellow arrow.  It gets lost in the all the city stuff.  Thanks Matt and Kayla!
This is a silly self portrait with the river behind me in Leon!
And so it is.  God is good.

3 comments:

  1. I am so pleased you are walking your own camino, Joni, not one scripted by other peregrinos.
    One day, when you get back to Spain, you will walk the meseta and it will be a very special experience for you. No rush, no crowds (everyone else will be whizzing by in a bus!) wide open vistas, silence, crickets in the wheat, butterflies and ancient villages forgotten by time with closed order convents and monastery albergues where the monks wash your feet as a part of their blessing. Magic!
    Big hug peregrina,
    Sil

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  2. Joni, I hope your feet will get used to their new routine and will cooperate. My feet started to complain too since I arrived in London yesterday. One thing I already know, My backpack is too heavy. I have to keep it below 12lb (seams impossible) if I to have my Camino bearable. I thought I only packed the very basic! I did pack my hiking shoes, just in case. Don’t worry about keeping up with the Joneses, listen to your feet. Thank you for writing; I look forward to it every day. Did you find your trekking poles useful? Maryla

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  3. Follow your steps, Joni and wishing you the very best as you walk at your own speed.
    May Santiago be with you always,
    Buen Camino, claire

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